Sunscreen Pty Ltd
Window Tinting
Licensed 3M Film Installer
Wholesale 3M Film Distributor
48 HOTHAM PARADE
ARTARMON NSW 2064
AUSTRALIA
Phone: 02 9439 5999
Fax: 02 9777 8790
sunscreen@windowtinting.com.au
3M Technical News
Published Quarterly by the 3M Building Safety Solutions Department - 3rd Quarter 2005
NEW ANSI Z97 TEST STANDARD
The new ANSI Z97 test standard
has been issued. The major change
that affects 3M safety and security
films is that there are now only two
test levels; 150 and 400 foot
pounds. The 100 ft-lb level has
been eliminated for all products
except wire glass. With the new
standard, the testing will start at
150 ft-lbs and be carried out as
before.
3M Ultra films are not affected by
this change because, in addition to
the standard test sequence of
starting with 100 ft-lbs, we also did
testing at 400 ft-lbs with ten samples
rather than the four that are required
by ANSI Z97. We did this to
demonstrate the effectiveness of our
micro-layer films in relatively thin
constructions.
We will, however, update any testing
in the future to comply to the new
standard.
The testing and reports for CPSC
are not affected by the new ANSI
standard.
Automotive Window Film Tips & Tricks
Tinting cars is a lot more time
consuming and difficult than filming
flat glass. The most problematic
procedures involve filming over the
dot matrix and heat shrinking films
for a one-piece backglass installation.
Following are some tips and tricks
compiled from many sources (a
special thank you to those who
provided their expertise):
Dot Matrix solutions: There are a few different options for
handling the dot matrix sections on
automotive windows.
Option 1 is to not film onto the dots
at all. If the matrix is large, like a
Nissan Maxima, the Chevy Cavalier
or several other cars, not filming the
dots could be the best solution.
Option 2 is to use glue to fill the
gaps between the dots and f ilm.
Scotch™ Stationary Glue or other gel
glues that dry clear work well. To
use, basically film the window as
normal and then pull the film back.
Apply a thin layer of glue over the
dots and then carefully squeegee the
film back into place with a hard card
wrapped in paper towel.
Option 3 is to cover the dots with
vinyl. In our film tool catalog, and
through vinyl graphics supply stores,
we offer special black vinyl tape that
can be installed over the dots and the
air removed with a hard card wrapped
with a paper towel.
Option 4 is to paint over the dots
with a flat black aerosol paint. This
can be messy and time consuming
but often returns excellent results.
Option 5 is to film the entire window
and then pull the film back from the
dots to let it dry. Then, with a soft
squeegee and firm pressure, slowly
and carefully push the film up into
the dots. This works especially well if
the car sits outside on a hot day first
so that the film fully dries and the
adhesive has maximum initial tack.
Option 6 is to lightly abrade the surface
of the dots with a green or grey
Scotchbrite™. DO NOT sand the
surface of the dots with sandpaper as
this can cause them to rust. In
addition, the risk of scratching the
glass with coarse sandpaper is high.
Obviously, many other options exist
but the above list appears to be the
most popular.
Heat Shrinking Solutions:
Heat shrinking a one piece backglass
f ilm installation is the most time
consuming step of an automotive film
installation. We will focus on only
dry shrinking methods as dry
shrinking is, with practice, often
faster and easier than wet shrinking.
The first thing to discuss is the choice
of lubricating agent. It is a matter of
personal preference and technique but
the most popular are baby powder,
dryer sheets, wax, or nothing at all.
The powder method is fairly self
explanatory: spread a thin layer of
baby powder over the entire window.
The dryer sheet method involves
wetting a dryer sheet and wiping the
window with it, depositing a film
onto the glass that will dry to form a
haze. Waxing the window performs
essentially the same way.
Lastly, some people shrink
completely dry with no slip agent at
all. This method can be a nice
transition from wet to dry as the film
shrinks more slowly than if a slip
agent is used.
Regardless of lubricating agent, the
film must be locked down
horizontally in the middle of the
window and is usually locked down
on the sides as well. The typical
method is to spray a folded up paper
towel with the mounting solution and
lift the f ilm up, placing a line of
water onto the glass, and then lay the
film down.
The film is then trimmed large on all
four sides using only a stainless steel
blade. A carbon steel blade will
scratch the glass. Break off a new
blade after every 3 cuts. Blades are
cheap, rear windows are not.
It is critical that any extra film be on
the top or bottom of the glass, not on
the sides, as the film will only shrink
on the top or bottom. Basically,
when looking at the window from the
back, there should be an obvious
H-pattern of film locked down to the
glass.
Typical film shrinkage experience
from the past has been to form finger
and then run the heat gun down the
fingers, causing a zig-zag pattern,
shrinking the film. With dry
shrinking, it is advised to shrink large
areas of the film instead of just the
f ingers, starting on the sides and
working toward the middle. We
recommend dividing this window
into quadrants and working one
quadrant at a time.
Starting in the lower left corner of
Quad 1, moving the heat gun in a 3”
circular pattern, move toward the
center of the glass, shrinking the
excess film. Then, move up 3” and
come back toward the edge with the
same 3” circular pattern. Now,
smooth the film to the glass with a
gloved hand. Repeat moving up the
window toward the top of the car.
Then, repeat for the other quadrants.
When the shrinking reaches the top
of the glass, the film will likely want
to form fingers. When this
happens, do not shrink directly on
the fingers. We recommend
shrinking between the fingers,
alternating from one side to the other,
until the finger disappears.
The shrinking technique also varies
by film. For example, an all-metal
film can withstand much more heat
before melting so the gun can be held
much closer than usual. However,
because of this heat reflection, it will
probably take longer to shrink.
A completely different technique for
shrinking involves shrinking the
bottom and top edges of the film first
and then shrinking the middle
sections using the technique above.
The advantages of this method are
that fingers are not an issue and it can
be faster. The disadvantages are that
it doesn’t work for every car and the
film in the middle can get shrunk to
the point where it will not shrink any
more but yet there is excess film.
Regardless of technique, a good final
technique is a wet check. Basically,
this involves lifting the film away
from the glass and wetting the glass
with mounting solution. Lay the film
back down and squeegee out the
wrinkles. If the film lays completely
flat, trim and install. If there are
f ingers, shrink the fingers by
carefully applying heat to them,
moving back and forth, until they are
gone. Then, trim and install. The
purpose of the wet check is to ensure
the film will install quickly and easily,
cutting time inside the car to a
minimum.
Nanotechnology
Nanotechnology is one of the latest
and greatest buzz words in the area of
new product technology. The truth is
that nanotechnology really isn’t that
new. Aspects of nanotechnology date
back to medieval times when gold
was incorporated into glass by
forgers. This gold was a nanoparticle
size and therefore gave the brilliant
red colors seen in stained glass
windows. What has changed more
recently is our ability to image and
detect things at the nanometer level.
Loosely defined, nanotechnology
relates to materials that are less than
100 nanometers. For comparison
sake, a human hair is about 50,000
nanometers (50 microns or 0.05
millimeters).
The current advances in
nanotechnology are allowing for
improvements in performance
characteristics of products while not
visibly changing the product. These
improvements can be increased
toughness or scratch resistance,
improved clarity, improved antireflection,
improved heat rejection, or
even easier cleaning or self-cleaning
properties.
3M has been a leader in the area of
nanotechnology for two decades. 3M
has incorporated nanotechnology into
a number of its products already.
One very successful product has been
3M ESPE’s Filtek™ Supreme Dental
Restorative. This nanocomposite
restorative has revolutionized the
dental industry. The nanoparticles in
the filler give the restored tooth a
natural looking translucent quality
that can be polished to mimic the
look of the surrounding tooth which
itself is a naturally occurring
nanocomposite.
3M utilizes nanotechnology in some
of its advanced hardcoats to give
greatly improved scratch resistance.
The use of nanoparticles in advanced
optical adhesives has expanded the
upper range of refractive index that
can be achieved in applications that
require index matching between
optical components.
One 3M’s biggest advances in
nanotechnology has been multi-layer
optical film (MOF). These films are
composed of many layers, only
nanometers thick, that allow the film
to control light. The VikuitiTM films
take advantage of this technology and
are found in laptop computers,
cellular phones and LCD flat panel
televisions. MOF has been
engineered to form nearly perfect
mirrors that are non-metallic.
3M is utilizing nanotechnology in
many other areas such as thermally
conductive adhesive soft tape for flat
panel high definition televisions, fuel
cell catalysts, high index retroreflective
traffic beads and many
other areas. 3M’s Corporate
Research Lab has a large group
researching more areas of
nanotechnology so that 3M will
continue to be a leader in bringing
innovative products to the market
that take advantage of
nanotechnology to deliver improved
performance.













